"Massimo Bottura may be a big personality with high-profile global projects, but Osteria Francescana remains a small, discreet restaurant in the relatively modest Italian town of Modena", said the award's website. She has since spoken out about 50 Best's gender inequality, entreating the list's sponsor on Instagram: "please evolve and do the right thing". Could it be possible that no local restaurant would be represented this year?
Spain's El Celler de Can Roca, which took the top honour in 2013 and 2015, came in second while third place went to Mirazur in southern France. An institutional bias against the kind of clean, market-based cooking of California chefs such as Suzanne Goin, Alice Waters and Nancy Silverton is regrettable but consistent.
Spain leads the way with seven restaurants on the list, including three in the top 10 - El Celler de Can Roca (No 2); Mugaritz (No 9) and Asador Etxebarri (No 10). This award is given to the chef with the most votes from his or her peers.
The victor has been in Spain seven times, the most of any country. Peru's Gaston Acurio won the Diner's Club Lifetime Achievement Award.
The Chefs' Choice Award this year went to Dan Barber, the chef and co-owner of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns (No. 12) in New York City and Westchester County, NY., respectively. Last year, only three of the top 50 restaurants had women at the helm, and all of them ran the kitchen alongside a man. Crenn was awarded the "Best Female Chef" title in 2016, although she was left off the list that year as well.
The World's 50 Best Restaurants also lacks geographic diversity.
"For the last 10 years of my career, I've been asked, 'What is it like to be a female chef?' To which I reply: I'm not sure what you mean, because I've never been a male chef", said Smyth, who is chef at London's Core, which was mistifyingly absent from the main list. This year, all of the top three restaurants were European. Atelier Crenn was No. 83 on the extended list past year.
Daniel Humm is pictured in the kitchen at Eleven Madison Park Restaurant on February, 2013 in NY.